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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.